Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
