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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.